Getting a clean shed usually starts with how you handle your counterbalance loom tie up before you even throw the first shuttle. If you've ever spent an afternoon fighting with your treadles or wondering why one shaft is hanging a half-inch lower than the rest, you know exactly how frustrating it can be when things aren't balanced. These looms are classic, sturdy machines, but they can be a bit temperamental if the cords aren't exactly where they need to be.
The beauty of a counterbalance loom is its simplicity. It works on a pulley system where shafts are literally pulling against each other. When you step on a treadle, some shafts go down, and because they're connected over rollers or horses at the top, the others naturally go up. But that "naturally" part depends entirely on a solid counterbalance loom tie up. If the tension is off or the cords are uneven, your shed—the gap the shuttle passes through—ends up looking more like a tangled mess than a clear path.
Why the tie up feels so different on these looms
If you've mostly worked on jack looms, the way a counterbalance loom tie up behaves might throw you for a loop at first. On a jack loom, you're just lifting shafts. On a counterbalance, you're managing a relationship. Everything is interconnected. You can't move one shaft without affecting its partner.
Because of this, the tie up is more about finding an equilibrium. You aren't just tying a cord to a pedal; you're setting the baseline for the entire weaving project. If you tie your treadles too high, you'll be straining your ankles all day. If they're too low, they'll hit the floor before the shed is even open. It's a bit of a "Goldilocks" situation where everything needs to be just right.
Getting the heights even
The first thing I always tell people is to look at the neutral position. Before you even think about the counterbalance loom tie up to the treadles, make sure your shafts are level. Most people use a "pinning" method or a pair of sticks to hold the shafts in a perfectly neutral, centered position while they work.
Once the shafts are locked in place, you can start the actual tie up. I've found that using Texsolv cord makes this a thousand times easier than using old-school cotton twine. Don't get me wrong, the traditional look is great, but trying to tie a knot that stays put under tension while also being adjustable is a nightmare. Texsolv lets you use those little plastic pegs to make micro-adjustments, which is a lifesaver when you realize one side of your shed is slightly smaller than the other.
Dealing with the 1/3 vs. 2/2 problem
Here's where the counterbalance loom tie up usually gets a bad reputation. These looms absolutely love balanced weaves. If you're doing a 2/2 twill (two shafts up, two shafts down), the loom is in its happy place. The weight is even, the pulleys move smoothly, and life is good.
But what happens when you want to do a 1/3 twill or something unbalanced? Since the shafts work in pairs, if you try to pull down three shafts and only leave one up, the loom starts to complain. The shed might be tiny, or the top shaft might sag.
Honestly, the best way to handle this during your tie up is to accept the loom's limitations or use a "shed regulator" if your loom has one. If it doesn't, you might have to get creative with your tension. Some weavers find that tying the "heavy" side slightly tighter helps, but usually, it's just a reminder that counterbalance looms were born to do balanced structures.
Step-by-step: How I approach the tie up
I like to start from the center and work my way out. It just feels more organized that way. Here's a loose breakdown of how I usually tackle a counterbalance loom tie up:
- Level the shafts: Like I mentioned before, use a lease stick or a dedicated tool to keep those shafts at the exact height the manual (or your experience) suggests.
- Organize the cords: Make sure your tie-up cords aren't tangled or crossing each other in weird ways. They should drop straight down from the lams to the treadles.
- Treadle height: I like my treadles to sit a few inches off the floor. Not so high that I'm lifting my whole leg, but high enough that I have plenty of room to push down.
- The first tie: I'll tie the first treadle, test it, and then use that as the template for the rest. If the first one feels good, I want the rest to match that angle perfectly.
It's also worth noting that the "lam" position matters. The lams are those horizontal bars between the shafts and the treadles. You want them to be parallel to the floor when everything is at rest. If your lams are slanting up or down before you even start, your tie up is going to be wonky from the get-go.
Common mistakes to watch out for
One of the biggest headaches with a counterbalance loom tie up is uneven tension across the treadle. If you're tying multiple cords to one treadle (which you almost always are for twill), they all need to be pulling with the same amount of force. If one cord is tighter than the others, it will pull that shaft down faster or further, resulting in a "dirty" shed where some threads are higher than others.
Another thing is the "creeping" knot. If you're using hemp or linen cord, those knots can slip over time. You think you've got it perfect, but after 500 picks, your treadles are hitting the floor. This is why I'm such a fan of modern materials for the tie up, even on a vintage loom. It just removes one more variable that can go wrong.
Testing as you go
Don't wait until you've tied all six or eight treadles to test the shed. Tie one, step on it, and look at the side profile of your warp. Is it a clean V-shape? Are there any stray threads hanging out in the middle? If it looks good, move on to the next one.
I've definitely made the mistake of finishing the whole counterbalance loom tie up only to realize I skipped a hole in the lam on the very first treadle. Having to go back and redo everything is a rite of passage for weavers, I guess, but it's one I'd rather avoid.
The feeling of a perfect shed
There's a specific "thump" and a smooth motion that happens when a counterbalance loom is tied up perfectly. It's much quieter than a jack loom because you don't have those heavy shafts slamming back down. It's all controlled by your feet. When the tie up is dialed in, the weaving becomes rhythmic and almost meditative.
If you find that your legs are getting tired or your back is aching, take another look at your treadle height. Sometimes a two-inch adjustment in your counterbalance loom tie up can make the difference between a painful hobby and a joyful one. Weaving is physical work, but it shouldn't be a workout unless you want it to be.
Final thoughts on keeping things balanced
At the end of the day, your loom is just a big physics experiment. The counterbalance loom tie up is how you calibrate that experiment. It takes a little patience, and you'll probably have to crawl under the loom more times than you'd like, but it's worth the effort.
Once you get the hang of how the pulleys and shafts interact, you'll start to "feel" when a cord is a little loose or when a shaft isn't pulling its weight. It's all part of the learning curve. Just remember to keep your shafts level, your cords straight, and your tension even. Your loom (and your shuttle) will thank you for it. Happy weaving!